About the Food

Cafe Habana, New York

The Cuban. A sandwich choice that I had not encountered before coming to North America, but one that seems to be as well known as the BLT. According to Wikipedia, a Cuban sandwich is a variation of a ham and cheese but that's like saying a pizza is a variation of tomatoes on bread. In a good Cuban sandwich (hey, I've had two so I'm nearly an expert!) the pork and cheese combine into one powerful filling of melty, flavorsome goodness (or perhaps badness, depending on your last cholesterol report).

Rushing past Cafe Habana in Nolita one day, I paused to glance at the menu and knew I needed to come back. On our return visit the cafe had a 20 minute wait and while I put my name down I wanted sustenance sooner. A look around the corner revealed the Cafe Habana takeaway joint and though it only had a couple of tiny tables and less atmosphere, it satisified our Cuban cravings. After canceling my name at the bustling cafe we got a seat next door and enjoyed the quiet. And the sandwiches.

Any place with an array of hot sauces is ok by me. 

The Cuban

Up close. Its glorious innards contain shredded pork, slices of ham, Swiss cheese and pickles. And I added hot sauce.

We also got the grilled corn. It is smothered in lime juice, cheese and chilli powder. Lip-tingly goodness.

Cafe Habana
17 Prince St (cnr Elizabeth St. Habana To-Go is on Elizabeth St)
New York
Tel: (212) 625-2001

I actually went here in September 2010. Just in case you're wondering why it's so sunny and bright. Yay for forgotten photos!

Richard Lenoir Markets, Paris

  Staying in a studio apartment in Paris, by myself, it would be criminal not not have visited a food market. So, being law-abiding, I did. And it was wonderful. The cloudy day and cool weather was brightened by the fresh produce, friendly yells from stallholders and delicious smells. Behold:

A massive pot of boeuf bourguignon. Am I the only one who says it in Julia Child's (Meryl Streep's Julia Child) voice?

Charcuterie. A big dish of ham, sausages and sauerkraut.

Roast chickens and sausages and quiches, oh my.

A big cast iron skillet of sausages and potatoes and itty, bitty, crunchy, happy, delicious bacon bits. 

Seafood. The seafood stalls had the loudest salespeople.

One of my favorite cheeses. It's a local Parisian cheese that I found out more about here.

Sweet, sweet caramel just asking to be eaten from the jar.

Finding somewhere that sells eggs individually is awesome when you're traveling alone. Even if the guy looks at you oddly when you request deux oeuf and pop them in your handbag.

Oh so cheerful mandarins.

I loved the selection of mushrooms.

There were lots.

And truffles!

This olive stall was very popular.

And pretty.

A place that just sold salads. The celeriac remoulade was excellent.

This church bell was ringing while I browsed, lending a village-y feel to the experience.

My loot!

My first meal from my loot. Celeriac remoulade, baguette with salted butter, a piece of rotisserie chicken, olives and cornichons.

Richard Lenoir Markets
Begins at Place de la Bastille (Metro: Bastille or Bréguet Sabin)
Thursday and Sunday, 9am to 1pm. I'd recommend going in the morning, stalls run out of the good stuff fast.

La Cafeotheque, Paris

With each new travel destination comes a list of must-sees, must-dos, must-gos and must-experiences. Whether it’s the top of the Empire State, the bottom of the Barrier Reef or the middle of the Sahara Desert, there are things considered essential to their respective places. However, as eye opening as these attractions are I also find fantastic experiences occur when you focus not on where you are but on who you are. Whether you love model cars or antique lamps, searching for your passion in a new place is a great way to spend a day when travelling. Not only do you experience a new take on your old flame, but it forces you to get off the tourist trail and explore a different area. And these journeys are sometimes the most memorable.

For me it’s food (did you guess?) and coffee. While some people may scoff at walking across town to try the best dumplings, I never pass up the chance to go out of my way for a fantastic feed. You end up with dumplings and the fun of exploring somewhere new.

Also, as soon as I’m in a new place (or know I’m going to a new place) I research my coffee options and try to find the best the city has to offer. While it is easy to explain this away by the fact I need caffeine to function, it is not that simple. After all, a tea or substandard coffee would satisfy my cravings. But the experience of a new, good café is one I savour. A café is the perfect place to sit amongst the locals, watch the world go by and marvel at the way the ritual of coffee can be so different.

And that's how I ended up at La Cafeotheque in Paris.

After a couple of reputable sites (here and here) pointed me in the right direction, I was able to find this oasis. As it is located on a quiet one-way street (rue de l’Hôtel de Ville) that's parallel to the busy Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville it's easy to miss La Cafeotheque. Actually, it's easy to miss this cafe if you've lost your sense of smell. Otherwise the aroma of roasting coffee will entice you in if you're nearby.

The front section is taken up by a roaster and a wall of beans, ready for those who enjoy a home brew to grab and go.

The back room is where it's nice to stay a while. A short bar encircles the barista nook while small couches and armchairs are scattered around the cosy space. It's a little messy, a little eclectic and very homey. Each time I went in there were people who knew the staff, and when they didn't the baristas were never stingy with a chat.

La Cafeotheque features a different single origin coffee of the day, and many times the baristas were deep in conversation (with each other and with customers) about the merits of particular regions.

In keeping with the mismatched chairs, there seems little order to the price of a coffee. It's a different price depending on whether you sit at the bar, on a couch or have a take-away, but a couple of times they just charged me a price seemingly at random. The regular price for a cappuccino enjoyed on a couch is €5, which is pretty steep for a daily fix. Yet (like most Parisian places) they have no problem with people sitting and nursing a coffee for an hour, so it was worth the price just to relax in the calming space.

And a few steps in front of the cafe is the Seine and the Pont Louis-Philippe. I'm not saying I wouldn't have discovered this pretty view without the cafe, but a good coffee in me sure made the experience of wandering out more pleasurable.

La Cafeotheque
52 rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville
Paris, France
Ph: 01 53 01 83 84

Cuisine de Bar, Paris

When you only have a limited time in a city, each meal counts. So to revisit somewhere when there are so many new eateries to try, well that speaks highly of that place.

And to order the same thing the second time? That's pretty close to five stars right there.

Cuisine de Bar, in Paris, is modern, simple, elegant and it centres around bread. The small and narrow space is divided into two sections: the front containing a handful of tables to seat two plus a bar looking into the open kitchen, and the back section containing a couple of large communal tables. The bread is from the famed bakery Poilane, located next door.

The menu is small and focuses on their speciality: tartines. This is the French term for open-faced sandwiches, and the selection at Cuisine de Bar is a marvellous introduction to this simple fare. Although open-faced sandwiches are not new, Cuisine de Bar offers a variety of combinations that are carefully put together and elevate the humble sandwich into a formidable meal.

The narrow kitchen and bar are reminiscent of a sushi restaurant, with one chef crafting, swivelling, arranging and plating in front of your eyes. Two wide grill/broiler contraptions are behind the chef, where they lightly toast each piece of bread before creating the art to top it off.

One of the best things about Cuisine de Bar is the prix fixe option. For about €12 you get a salad, your choice of tartine (a couple of the options have a surcharge), a glass of wine/bottle of mineral water, a coffee and a sweet biscuit. It's fantastic value.

The salad is simple, just a mix of greens and sprouts with a slightly sweet mustardy dressing and a smidgen of bread.

Both times I went I got the same tartine - the Poulet. It has a garlicky aioli, sliced roast chicken, anchovies and capers and is a stunning combination.

This sweet biscuit to finish is in a cute spoon shape and is perfect for stirring through the bitter coffee.

Cuisine de Bar also has an afternoon special where for about €8 you can have a tea/coffee/hot chocolate and a piece of tart or a pastry (also from Poilane). The options change every day.

This is a slice of Paris that you should not miss.

Cuisine de Bar
8 rue du Cherche-Midi
Paris, France
Ph: 01 45 48 45 69
Open: Tuesday to Saturday 8:30-7:00pm
I noticed that they pack up the savory ingredients around 4pm or 5pm; the later hours are mainly for tea/coffee and baked goods.

Eiffel hungry

Here's a food confession for you:

When in Paris, I didn't love ALL of my meals.

I definitely had some great meals. And I definitely had some meals that I could not have experienced anywhere else. But I also had bad eating experiences and, call me naive, but that surprised me.

Maybe it was a case of high expectations  - it's possible that some of my 'bad' experiences would have been perfectly passable in a town not famous for its food. Plus, considering the Euro is pretty strong, a bad meal also meant a wasted chunk of cash and that doesn't help with digestion.

Anyway, I would never allow my bad experiences to overtake the good. Paris provided some stellar meals which will remain in my mind forever. When I did my research and sought out great places I was rarely disappointed. I just feel that Paris contains more than a few restaurants that take advantage of the city's reputation.

I have nothing more to add about the bad places as this isn't about naming or shaming. I just wanted to point out that a bad meal in Paris is possible. As it is in any part of the world. C'est la vie!

On your own

Me, alone, in Paris.

On my recent trip to Europe I experienced the highs and lows of solo travel. When travelling alone there are no rules. No one is there to contradict you when you claim to be a rocket scientist, no one forces you to leave bed when you want to sleep all day and no one holds you back by sleeping in when you want to be out in the world.

The lack of restrictions can be exhilarating and tiring. And, especially when you’re in a country where you don’t speak the language, solo travelling can be isolating. However, it is worth doing if only to experience the world when there are no friends, partners or family to distract you.

An intimidating factor of solo travel is the idea of dining alone. Will other diners stare? Will I get bored? Will the waiters treat me with pity? These are justifiable fears but dining alone doesn't need to be scary. Here are my tips for enjoying eating one-on-none:

Embrace lunch Make lunch your main meal. As well as often being cheaper, lunch is usually low-key and more relaxed. It’s a lot easier to blend in as a solo diner, plus if you’re in an area with business people you’re likely to be one of many eating alone.

Don't dine out on Friday/Saturday nights Even if I’m eating with someone, I avoid restaurants on Friday and Saturday nights. They’re busier, nosier and the staff are extra harried. This is even more a reason to avoid restaurants for solo weekend dinners. You’re more likely to be the only one eating alone, and the staff would usually prefer to have their prime real-estate (two-person tables) taken up by two people. If you’re eating out on a weekend night, aim to eat early or late.

Occupy yourself Many people choose to read when dining alone, at least while they’re waiting for the food. I agree, however I recently received some good advice suggesting that it’s better to write in a notepad. This way you aren’t too engrossed in another world and can better appreciate the food, plus you may even get better service if the restaurant starts suspecting you’re a critic.

And embrace the positives of solo travel. You may not feel comfortable dining alone, but buying one last-minute theatre or dance ticket usually means a better seat than if you’d bought a pair. And solo traveling is ideal for striking up conversations with strangers who can – if you’re lucky – become friends. Meaning that you may find company for your next meal.

Only in New York

I'm back.

The phrase “only in New York”, is overused. It’s said with disgust at the sight of two rats devouring a third in the subway tracks. It’s said with reproach at the pedestrians and cars dashing in front of emergency vehicles that blare sirens. It’s said with pride at the cacophony of fashion gracing the streets – from gnomes to haute couture. It’s said with awe at talented street performers – like a tap dancer worthy of Broadway performing in a park at midnight.

Sure we use the phrase “Only in Sydney”, in Australia. A world-class espresso, followed by a swim in a postcard-worthy beach then a fiery and authentic Thai lunch springs to mind as an “Only in Sydney” experience. However, that’s coming from a local who has had more than 20 years to explore the best Sydney has to offer.

In New York, it’s possible to utter the four words “Only in New York”, when straight off the plane. It’s a unique place; for most people it has existed in their consciousness long before they visit. We’re familiar with New York through culture – literature and pulp fiction, classic films and sitcoms. Many people think they know the city and its personality. Therefore, being sworn at while strolling the footpath is not negative – it’s a validation of the New York experience.

However, one of the best things about this city is that it’s constantly a surprise. Whenever I ask for directions or advice from anyone in New York, the response is helpful and kind. A friend who accidentally left her phone in a store was overjoyed to return an hour later to find it had been handed in to lost property. After a short conversation, a stranger in a market became a friend who later had us over for a home-cooked meal. These experiences may not be noteworthy in any other place, but here – in the so-called capital of the world – these kind and fun human interactions make us feel a little less alone in a very big place. And perhaps that’s something that can happen only in New York.

A cake to rule them all

My heart is broken.

I've tasted the most amazing cake of my life. Two simple sponge cakes sandwiched with a mountain of fresh whipped cream and a mixed berry jam that is so fruity it tastes like a berry sauce. It's a Victoria Sponge from Juliet's.

And why is my heart broken? Juliet's is in Tunbridge Wells, an English town about an hour on the train from London. And I'm not in Tunbridge Wells, London or England.

This cake is legendary. Every day it appears from the kitchen around midday, and is proudly placed in the cafe window. Then, it is removed from the window, and put back, but with a slice missing. This process is repeated around eight times, until there is none left. And then that's it - there's no more cake.

I ate this cake three times while in Tunbridge Wells. The first time was just a taste, so I could discover how good life could be. The second time was the scary one - I was eating lunch and knew I wanted cake for dessert, but had to shovel down my food as I saw the slices quickly disappearing. I was lucky enough to get the last slice, and the kindly staff just charged me a pound for it as it was not a complete slice. The third time was the best. My Tunbridge Wells host, MaybeNextWeek and I arrived early, had a leisurely brunch, sat and waited until the cake came out then ordered the first two pieces. If I thought I loved this cake before, this had me ready for marriage. This slice, with unsquished cream, squeaky fresh fruit and the soft sponge brought me to tears. It was that good.

And not only is this The Cake Of Perfection, but it's served on vintage china, with tea in mismatched tea pots in one of the cutest cafes in the world. So it's altogether a wonderful experience.

So hopefully now, not only do I have a broken heart, but you too are weeping because you have not tried this cake (unless you have, but then you'll just be weeping more). After all, misery loves company. And cake. Misery loves cake.

Note: The photos were taken with my iPhone, which explains their slight color zaniness. Don't worry, the cake isn't zany. It's perfect.

Fall in love

 

I'm embracing the American language. I've never learnt a foreign language before.

Yay for Fall.

Cafe Sabarsky

Tucked inside the Neue Galerie, a German and Austrian art gallery, is Cafe Sabarsky. With dark wood panels, cozy fabric covered booths and the gentle clinking of cutlery against china, Cafe Sabarsky is a peaceful oasis with a view of Central Park. It's dim, elegant and very European.

Unfortunately, I haven't been inside the gallery so I can't report on the pieces within. However, I can report on this work of art – the Sacher Torte.

The report is A+.

Cafe Sabarsky
1048 Fifth Avenue
New York
Tel: (212) 628-6200